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Or they can get an inkling of the pressure to perform in sweatshop conditions by assembling a box inside one minute. Much slower and you were headed for the workhouse. It is possible to walk throughout the year, although even in summer, weather conditions can change suddenly. Situated in the grounds of an Elizabethan manor outside Cardiff, St Fagans is a comprehensive museum of Welsh life and a great repository of Welsh buildings. Although the castle contains showcases of the usual stuff – muskets, crossbows and flat irons – what people really come to see is the display of Welsh vernacular architecture spread over acres of woodland and pasture.
They range from a medieval cockpit to a row of miners’ cottages, from a 17th-century Gower farmhouse painted red to ward off the devil to a fully functioning 18th-century tollgate from outside Aberystwyth. There is also an impressive Victorian Working Man’s Institute and a fully functioning bakery. They also enjoy the sweet counter, which sells old-fashioned candy twists in the Derwen Bake House and the smithy, where a real blacksmith bangs metal into shape. At the Iron Age village they can run around three straw-roofed roundhouses like woad-painted demons.
It can be a bit of a shock to see images from your own childhood cropping up as you tour the grounds. There is a coffee shop and a restaurant, but it’s more fun to queue in the Edwardian café, where waitresses in frilly aprons will serve you cawl (soup) with local breador a cream tea. There’s a discernible sense of energy and bustle around the Peak District at the moment, and with good reason: next month marks the 75th anniversary of the mass trespass on Kinder Scout that did so much to establish public access to the countryside.